Come to South Dakota


Badlands National Park

Badlands National Park, in southwestseries of papers about North American
South Dakota, preserves 242,756 acresfossils, 84 distinct species had been
(982 km2)[1] of sharply eroded buttes,discovered in North America - 77 of
pinnacles and spires blended with thewhich were found in the White River
largest protected mixed grass prairie inBadlands. In 1870 a Yale professor, O.
the United States.C. Marsh, visited the region and
The Badlands Wilderness protects 64,250developed more refined methods of
acres (259 km2) of the park as aextracting and reassembling fossils into
designated wilderness area[2] and is thenearly complete skeletons. From 1899 to
site of the reintroduction of thetoday, the South Dakota School of Mines
black-footed ferret, the most endangeredhas sent people almost every year and
land mammal in North America.remains one of the most active research
The Stronghold Unit is co-managed withinstitutions working in the White River
the Oglala Sioux tribe and includesBadlands. Throughout the late 1800s and
sites of 1890s Ghost Dances and a formercontinuing today, scientists and
United States Air Force bomb and gunneryinstitutions from all over the world
range.have benefited from the fossil resources
Over 11,000 years of human history inof the White River Badlands. The White
the park pales in comparison to theRiver Badlands have developed an
ages-old paleontological resources alsointernational reputation as a fossil
found there. Badlands National Parkrich area. They contain the richest
contains the world's richest Oligocenedeposits of Oligocene mammals known,
epoch fossil beds, dating 23 to 35providing a brief glimpse of life in
million years old. Scientists can studythis area 33 million years ago.
the evolution of mammal species such asComparisons between the fossils here and
the horse, sheep, rhinoceros and pig infossils of similar age around the world
the Badlands formations.have helped paint a picture of life on
Human Historyearth millions of years ago.
American IndiansHomesteaders
For eleven thousand years, NativeAspects of American homesteading began
Americans have used this area for theirbefore the end of the American Civil
hunting grounds. Long before the LakotaWar; however, homesteading didn't really
were the little-studied paleo-Indians,impact the Badlands until well into the
followed by the Arikara people. Their20th century. Many hopeful farmers
descendants live today in North Dakotatravelled to South Dakota from Europe or
as a part of the Three Affiliatedthe East Coast to try to eke out a
Tribes. Archaeological records combinedliving in this hard place. The standard
with oral traditions indicate that thesesize for a homestead was 160 acres. This
people camped in secluded valleys whereproved far too small to support a family
fresh water and game were available yearin a semi-arid, wind-swept environment.
round. Eroding out of the stream banksIn the western Dakotas, the size of a
today are the rocks and charcoal ofhomestead was increased to 640 acres.
their campfires, as well as theCattle grazed and crops like winter
arrowheads and tools they used towheat and hay were cut annually.
butcher bison, rabbits, and other game.However, the Great Dust Bowl events of
From the top of the Badlands Wall, theythe 1930s combined with waves of
could scan the area for enemies andgrasshoppers proved too much for most of
wandering herds. If hunting was good,the hardy souls of the Badlands. Houses
they might hang on into winter, beforebuilt out of sod blocks and heated by
retracing their way to their villagesbuffalo chips were soon abandoned. Those
along the Missouri River. By one hundredwho remained are still here today -
and fifty years ago, the Great Siouxranching and raising wheat.
Nation consisting of seven bandsGunnery Range History
including the Oglala Lakota, hadThe Stronghold District of Badlands
displaced the other tribes from theNational Park offers more than scenic
northern prairie.badlands with spectacular views.
The next great change came toward theCo-managed by the National Park Service
end of the 19th century as homesteadersand the Oglala Sioux Tribe, this 133,300
moved into South Dakota. The U.S.acre area is also steeped in history.
government stripped Native Americans ofDeep draws, high tables, and rolling
much of their territory and forced themprairie hold the stories of the earliest
to live on reservations. In the fall andPlains hunters, the paleo-Indians, as
early winter of 1890, thousands ofwell as the present day Lakota Nation.
Native American followers, includingHomesteaders and fossil hunters have
many Oglala Sioux, became followers ofalso made their mark on the land. There
the Indian prophet Wovoca. His visionis a more recent role this remote,
called for the native people to dancesparsely populated area has played in
the Ghost Dance and wear Ghost Shirts,U.S. history: World War II and the
which would be impervious to bullets.Badlands gunnery range.
Wovoca had predicted that the white manAs a part of the war effort, the U.S.
would vanish and their hunting groundsAir Force (USAF) took possession of
would be restored. One of the last known341,726 acres of land on the Pine Ridge
Ghost Dances was conducted on StrongholdReservation, home of the Oglala Sioux
Table in the South Unit of Badlandspeople, for a gunnery range. Included in
National Park. As winter closed in, thethis range was 337 acres from then
ghost dancers returned to Pine RidgeBadlands National Monument. This land
Agency. The climax of the struggle camewas used extensively from 1942 through
in late December, 1890. Headed south1945 as air-to-air and air-to-ground
from the Cheyenne River, a band ofgunnery ranges. Precision and demolition
Minneconjou Sioux Indians crossed a passbombing exercises were also quite
in the Badlands Wall. Pursued by unitscommon. After the war, portions of the
of the U.S. Army, they were seekingbombing range were used as an artillery
refuge in the Pine Ridge Reservation.range by the South Dakota National
The band, led by Chief Big Foot, wasGuard. In 1968, most of the range was
finally overtaken by the soldiers neardeclared excess property by the USAF.
Wounded Knee Creek in the Reservation2500 acres are retained by the USAF but
and ordered to camp there overnight. Theare no longer used.
troops attempted to disarm Big Foot'sFiring took place within most of the
band the next morning. Gunfire erupted.present day Stronghold District. Land
Before it was over, nearly two hundredwas bought to leased form individual
Indians and thirty soldiers lay dead.landowners and the Tribe in order to
The massacre at Wounded Knee was theclear the area of human occupation. Old
last major clash between Americancar bodies and 55 gallon drums painted
Indians and the U.S. military until thebright yellow were used as targets.
American Indian Freedom actions of theBulls-eyes 250 feet across were plowed
1970s, most notably again, at Woundedinto the ground and used as targets by
Knee, South Dakota.Wounded Knee is notbombardier bombing flights. Small
within the boundaries of Badlandsautomatic aircraft called "drones" and
National Park. It is located60-foot by 8-foot screens dragged behind
approximately 45 miles south of the parkplanes served as mobile targets. Today,
on Pine Ridge Reservation. The U.S.the ground is littered with discarded
government and the Oglala Lakota Nationbullet shells and unexploded ordinance.
have agreed that this is a story to beFor safety, 125 families were relocated
told by the Oglala of Pine Ridge andfrom their farms and ranches in the
Minneconjou of Standing Rock1940s. Those that remained nearby recall
Reservation. The interpretation of thetimes when they had to dive under
site and its tragic events are held astractors while out cutting hay to avoid
the primary responsibility of theseshells dropped by planes miles outside
survivors.of the boundary. In the town of
Fossil HuntersInterior, both a church and the building
The history of the White River Badlandshousing the current post office received
as a significant paleontologicalsix inch shells through the roof. Pilots
resource goes back to the traditionalin practice, operating out of Ellsworth
Native American knowledge of the area.Air Force Base near Rapid City, found it
The Lakota found large fossilized bones,a challenge to determine the exact
fossilized seashells and turtle shells.boundaries of the range. Fortunately,
They correctly assumed that the area hadthere were no civilian casualties.
once been under water, and that theHowever, at least a dozen members of
bones belonged to creatures which noflight crews lost their lives in plane
longer existed. Paleontological interestcrashes.
in this area began in the 1840s.Just as it was difficult for pilots to
Trappers and traders regularly traveleddetermine the gunnery range from the
the 300 miles from Fort Pierre to Fortair, it is challenging to find your way
Laramie along a path which skirted thewhen exploring the Stronghold District.
edge of what is now Badlands NationalThere are few roads. The natural
Park. Fossils were occasionallyconditions of rain and snow add to the
collected, and in 1843 a fossilized jawcomplexity. Throughout the Stronghold
fragment collected by AlexanderDistrict are spent 50 caliber machine
Culbertson of the American Fur Companygun shells and 20 mm cannon shells.
found its way to a physician in St.Larger explosive shells are occasionally
Louis by the name of Dr. Hiram A. Prout.found eroding out of the Badlands
In 1846, Prout published a paper aboutbuttes. If you find any shells, do not
the jaw in the American Journal oftouch them. Note where you are. If you
Science in which he stated that it hadhave a map, note on the map where you
come from a creature he called aare. As soon as possible, report this to
Paleotherium. Shortly after thethe White River Ranger Station at (605)
publication, the White River Badlands455 - 2878. The National Park Service,
became popular fossil hunting groundsworking with the Oglala Sioux Tribe, the
and, within a couple of decades,U.S. Air Force, and the U.S. Army Corps
numerous new fossil species had beenof Engineers are undertaking a clean up
discovered in the White River Badlands.effort for this sacred ground. Do your
In 1849, Dr. Joseph Leidy, published apart. Leave all objects you find in the
paper on an Oligocene camel and renamedpark in place. Report anything unusual
Prout's Paleotherium, Titanotheriumyou find to a park ranger.
prouti. By 1854 when he published a



1 A B C D 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108